Vivid grandeur of a Pochampally
Every woman who wears a saree would easily identify the pattern of a Pochampally. Distinct and different, the ikat weaves of this Andhra Pradesh town are a classic saree option.
Pochampally weaving is done on silk, cotton or a combination of both. The dyeing of the warp and weft based on calculations on when the warp would meet the weft, the motifs and patterns that are to be created etc. And it is a time consuming labour intensive process as each time a new colour is required, the yarn has to be retied and redyed. The calculations are even based on the thickness of the yarn. Both single and double ikats are woven here. The resultant garment is similar on both sides.
The traditional colour palette of Pochampally is red, yellow, green and black with white as the contrast colour. The motifs include flowers, fruits, leaves and geometric patters like diamonds and chessboard grids are woven. The motifs are large and the borders are wide. The Pochampally textiles was the first of Indian fabrics to win the GI mark.
The Pochampally weaves have great potential to build on its traditional design base. Its possible to render them to contemporary costumes and design sensibilities. New look options like textiles without pattern repeats are also attempted. New motifs are also being experimented with. New colours are also being used.
Taj Khazana recently presented Rahul Mishra's interpretation of the Pochampally weaves. His collection used motifs in a neo graphic fashion. And as more designers play with the rich palette of Pochampally, we are sure to see more innovative styles emerging.